Thursday, December 13, 2012

Where to Find Reliable Wholesale Upholstery Suppliers

You need a reliable upholstery supplier in order to run a successful upholstery shop. Try these sources for finding good upholstery suppliers.
 
Upholsterers Need Good Material Suppliers - L. JusticeAfter finishing upholstery training and finding the right location for your upholstery shop, you will need to find good suppliers. When setting up a small business such as an upholstery shop, it can be hard to find the right suppliers. I tried all of the methods listed during my years as a professional upholsterer, and each method served the purpose of leading me to a supplier who provided the wholesale materials needed to complete the job.

Where to Find Upholstery Suppliers
  • Word of mouth - Check with other upholsterers to see if they are willing to share names of their suppliers. Some will be willing to share, while others may want to keep their fabric sources a secret. If the first shop manager you contact does not want to share the information, contact another one. The benefits of this approach are that some managers will go as far as giving you the phone number and address of the supplier. You can get a look at the quality of materials from different suppliers. Finally, some people like to talk about it when they have a bad experience with a business, so you can use this method to weed out unreliable upholstery suppliers.
  • Internet auction sites - Start by checking the seller's rating and comments from past customers if you are considering buying upholstery supplies or tools from an Internet auction site. Avoid sellers with poor reviews. As long as you are careful in researching the seller before committing to the purchase, you can save a lot of money on upholstery materials, sometimes even going below wholesale prices. The main drawback of buying this way is you might have a hard time returning or matching the fabric if you run into a problem.
  • Trade and specialty magazines - Trade magazines are loaded with articles about other shops, new techniques, and new products plus where to get them, and finally advertisements placed by hopeful suppliers. You can use the provided contact information to request samples or swatch books and to get information about setting up an account. Specialty magazines contain similar information and ads, so do not overlook them as a source if your shop specializes in a specific type of upholstery.
  • Internet search engines - If none of these other approaches for finding an upholstery supplier fill the bill for you, use your favorite search engine. Even if you already have a favored wholesale supplier, this approach can be helpful if you are looking for hard-to-find materials or specific brands.
  • Manufacturers - If you are looking for a specific brand of fabric or upholstery tools and cannot find a supplier, you can contact the manufacturer for help. Some manufacturers use only a limited number of suppliers, so this can often save you time when searching.
Where to Find Really Cheap Upholstery Supplies

You can sometimes also find shops and factories that have gone out of business and purchase their unused inventory at a fraction of the original price. This will not provide you with a reliable wholesale supplier, but it can help to build up your shop's inventory.

Copyright Laure Justice


Thursday, October 18, 2012

Heavy Duty Thread for Canvas

For the best result when sewing canvas, you need either a heavy-duty sewing machine or an industrial sewing machine capable of running heavy duty thread for canvas.

You might "get away with" using a lighter, standard-duty, light gauge thread when you sew canvas, but you can't really expect what you make to holdup and last if you do.

In the fabric store, or online store, look for heavy gauge thread. In the store, the coarse thread you need for sewing canvas should be with or at least near the upholstery, drapery, or canvas department.

Also, if you plan to use the canvas item you're making outside, look for UV protected thread, or it will rot away long before your canvas wears out.

One final tip for sewing with heavy gauge thread: Use a large gauge sewing machine needle.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

How to Sew Coated Polypropylene Fabric Without Breaking a Household Sewing Machine

It's possible to sew coated polypropylene on a regular-duty sewing machine, though I don't recommend doing it frequently because it is hard on the machine.

  1. No pins: Don't try to use sewing pins. Pins just poke holes in the coating layer and increase the chance your sewing machine needle will hit a pin and break while you're sewing poly-pro.
  2. Think big: Use a big sewing machine needle, such as a denim needle. If you try to use a delicate needle, it's just going to break and could even damage your sewing machine.
  3. Grab the tape: If you have too much trouble keeping poly-pro layers together, use heavy-duty packing tape and sew right through it. Just have some acetone (nail polish remover) or rubbing alcohol handy to clean the needle if you do this, because it gets sticky.
  4. Flatten layers completely before sewing: Don't let the seams flap both ways because you will hit thick spots if you do, and will most likely break your needles.
  5. Brace yourself: Sewing coated polypropylene on a regular duty sewing machine, hold on tight. Sewing this fabric is the seamstress's version of driving on ice. The coated material slides out of control quickly, especially when you run it through a regular sewing machine. You really need a walking foot sewing machine for this if you plan to make a habit of sewing polypropylene fabric.
  6. No rubbing: Don't let your fingers slide along the cut edge of the poly-pro. Think triple-width paper cut if you do - well - you won't have to think it because that's what you'll have - and yeah, it hurts.

Monday, September 10, 2012

How to Patch a Polypropylene Awning

Polypro Awning photo credit: kevinrosseel from morguefile.com

Polypropylene is a durable material, but it can get holes in it. When it is an awning that has a hole, anything stored under that awning is going to get wet.

Also, exposure to wind and rain are going to turn a tiny hole into a big, frayed mess if you do not do something to stop it.

If you have any modern polypropylene feed sacks and a heavy duty sewing machine, you already have exactly what you need to patch a torn polypropylene awning.

How to Do It: Polypro Patches Made Easy

Before you start cutting and sewing polypropylene patches on your awning, clean the awning. This will help keep grime out of your sewing machine's inner workings.

  1. Cut the patch from an old feed-sack, making it at least two inches larger than the hole, all the way around the hole. If possible, match the feedsack color to the awning's color.
  2. Place the polypropylene patch over the hole. You do not need to fold the edges of the patch under to prevent fraying because feed-sacks are coated and the coating prevents fraying.
  3. Sew all the way around the patch, 1/4-inch from the cut edge. This will be awkward if the awning is large, so be patient and carefully work the excess polypro out of the way to avoid sewing through the wrong layer of fabric.
  4. Use a stick of tent-seam sealant to coat the exposed stitching. Tent seam sealant kind of looks like a tube of lip balm and is available in stores that sell camping supplies as well as online.
Patching a damaged awning will not make it last forever, but it will get you through a season or two before you have to invest in a new one. 

Sunday, August 26, 2012

How to Make a Zipper Work Easier

Old Zipper
Zipper sliders stick when fabric gets caught and when zipper coils become corroded, but you can make a zipper work easier so you do not have to force it.

Almost everyone who has worn a garment with a zipper, or used a bag with a zipper, has had that moment when the zipper is closing but it’s awkward and stiff, and then it sticks. What you do after that moment when the zipper first sticks can determine if you are going to break the zipper or save it.

You can damage a zipper that does not quite work right by forcing it to open or close, but there are ways to make a zipper work easier. You can jam a zipper if the fabric surrounding the zipper is too floppy. You will need to sew the fabric down to get it out of the way for this problem. Your zippers can also be difficult to open if the teeth or coils get corroded. To fix this, you need to treat the teeth or coils to make the zipper work easier.

The Sewing Notions You Need to Make a Zipper Work Easier

  • Straight pins
  • Hand sewing thread
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Scissors
  • Toothbrush
  • Distilled white vinegar
  • Candle wax or bar soap

The Sewing Steps to Follow in Order to to Free Up a Stuck Zipper

  1. Pull the zipper up and down slowly to see why it is sticking. If fabric is getting caught in the zipper pull, you need to sew the excess fabric down to make the zipper work easier. If the teeth or coils seem to be coated with something dry or sticky you need to treat or coat them to make the zipper work easier.
  2. Spread the zipper edge out flat on the table if the problem is excess fabric, so you can see the places where excess fabric is in the zipper's path. Fold the excess fabric under and pin it down using the straight pins.
  3. Thread the hand sewing needle and make a small knot, tying the thread ends together. Slide the needle's tip into the folded fabric, about 1/16 inch in, to hide the knot. Bring the needle tip out, catching about two strands of the fabric's fibers. Pull the thread snug.
  4. Move the needle's tip across to the zipper tape, about 1/16 inch forward and catch about two strands of fiber on the zipper tape. Pull until the thread is snug again, but not tight. Repeat the 1/16 inch stitching until you reach the end of the folded excess fabric.

The Steps to Unstick a Zipper by Cleaning Zipper Teeth or Coils

  1. Dip the toothbrush in distilled white vinegar if the zipper teeth or coils appear the be dry or sticky. Brush the vinegar into the zipper teeth. Let the vinegar soak in for about ten minutes, then dip the brush in vinegar and scrub again. Let the zipper teeth air dry.
  2. Rub the hard candle wax or bar soap against the zipper teeth. Use firm pressure when you rub, but do not rub so hard the wax or soap crumbles or gets on the fabric. Gently pull the zipper's slider up and down two or three times to spread the wax over the zipper teeth.
Originally published on Suite101.
 
 

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Box X Stitching on Belt Loop of Epi Pen Belt Case

More on the Epi Pen belt case I'm working on.... I used the box x stitch to attach the belt loop because it is considered one of the strongest stitches.

Epi Pen Belt Case

Hi, This is the prototype Epi Pen belt case I'm working on... I'm open to suggestions if you have anything you would like to say about it.

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Padded Smartphone Bag with Inhaler Pouch

Check out my latest smartphone bag prototype. I'm still trying to perfect the design.

This pouch has an inner padded pocket to protect a smartphone, a puffed out side pouch to hold an asthma inhaler or set of keys, and a third pouch to keep your money, is, or credit cards.

To finish it off, I added swivel clips to hook on belt loops. If I get the pattern right, I'll offer a detachable strap as an option.
I also reinforced the bottom and side panel for extra durability.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

How to Clean a Serger

Brother Serger


Cleaning your serger will be easier if you remove the thread, but threading a serger can be a challenge, so I'm going to give you a tutorial that lets you clean around the thread. It takes a little extra patience and a steady hand, but it is possible. If you start to get frustrated when following this tutorial on how to clean a serger, take a short break and then come back refreshed to finish cleaning your serger.

What You'll Need:
  • A fine tipped artist's paintbrush
  • A bowl of water with a drop of dish detergent in it
  • Paper towels or a soft cloth
  • Sewing machine oil (optional)
Instructions:
  1. Clean the outer case of the serger first.
  2. Dip the paintbrush in the water and rub the wet brush against the most heavily soiled areaas on the machine. Slide the brush under the threads as needed, without lifting up or moving the threads.
  3. Let the water soak into the soiled areas for about three minutes, then fold a paper towel and wipe the moisture and grime away. Slide the point of the paper towel under the threads the same way you did the paintbrush.
  4. Clean the entire outer case first, then open the cover to expose the serger's  loopers.
  5. Dry the paintbrush before touching the loopers.
  6. Gently brush and flick loose thread and fabric fibers out of the looper area of the machine.
  7. If you get any water on the shiny metal loopers, apply a drop of sewing machine oil and use the brush to spread it around so it covers the metal that got wet. This is to prevent the wet spot from causing your loopers to rust.
  8. Check the threading to make sure nothing came loose, then replace the lower looper cover.
Tip: If you have access to an air compressor or a can of that compressed air that computer techs use to clean computers, you can blast the fibers out of the looper area instead of brushing them out. Either way will work, but blasting it with air is more likely to pop threads out of the loopers tan gentle brushing is.

Thursday, July 5, 2012

I Forgot to Add Serger Looper Adjustment How-to and Serger Cleaning How-to Articles

I will try to get on here tomorrow and add at least one of these how-to's, and the other by the next day. If I forget and you need the info, drop me an email at LaureJ@consultant.com to remind me to get it in gear and get them on here.

These are my planned titles:
  • How to Clean a Serger
  • How to Adjust the Loopers on a Serger
I might also add a couple of things specific to a Singer MerrittLock Serger; like the other, drop me  a note if you need the info before I get it posted.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

How to Avoid the Threat of injury When Operating an Industrial Sewing Machine

Copyright . Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally published on Suite101.


Monday, July 2, 2012

Transform Old Pants into a Shoe Tote Bag

If reuse, recycle, restyle is your mantra, you can transform an old pair of pants into a shoe bag with compartments.
Copyright . Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally Published on Suite101.



Sunday, July 1, 2012

Tips for Starting an Eco-Friendly Tote Bag Business with Low Start Up Costs

Copyright . Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally Published on Suite101.


Saturday, June 30, 2012

Tips for Breaking Into the Fashion Design Industry

If you love sewing and maybe even creating your own designs, a career in fashion design might be the perfect career for you. Read on to learn more about how to train for a career in this competitive field.

Where to Get Fashion Design Training: Fashion design is a highly competitive field, with little growth expected. Finding the right fashion design training increases your chance of success.

Copyright . Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally published on Suite101.



Sunday, June 24, 2012

Adjusted the Loopers on My Serger Today

Serger

One of the loopers on my serger, the one closest to the body of the serger, was loose and wobbling around like a child's loose tooth. I got the screw tightened but it still would not stitch.

After that, I kept putting it off, thinking I would rather take my serger to my sewing machine mechanic than try to do it myself.

Anyway, today, (soon to be yesterday) I decided I needed my serger and could do it myself. I got out my allen wrench kit and tried different wrenches until I found the right size - it took a size 2 - metric.

I could not get that little screw to turn so I got help to loosen the screw. Then, I just slowly worked the hand crank so I could watch the positioning of the looper as it passed the needle.

When it hit the sweet spot, I tightened the screw with the size 2 allen wrench and rethreaded the beast. It stitched perfectly, and I saved the cost of a trip to the sewing machine repairman and a week without my machine.

The serger in the picture is not mine - it's a MorgueFile picture.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Recycling Blue Jeans

I like to save clothes when they wear out and make them into new things, like water bottle holders, and tote bags, but I just ran across another way to recycle denim blue jeans, so I thought I would share for those of you not interested in restyling old jeans into new things.

File:Feld mit reifer Baumwolle.jpeg
Cotton
Even if you don't use every scrap of your old clothes, you can still be earth-friendly and keep your old jeans out of landfills.

Cotton: From Blue to Green recycles old denim into Ultra Touch (TM) house insulation. With a lot to recommend this type of recycling and insulation, Ultra Touch (TM):
  • is environmentally safe
  • is non-itch (as someone allergic to fiberglass I especially appreciate this feature)
  • is non-carcinogenic
  • is formaldehyde-free
  • is free of chemical additives
  • provides exceptional thermal performance
  • provides 30% more sound absorbing than fiberglass
  • contains an active mold/mildew inhibitor (it is one of the only insulation products that does this.)
Interestingly, it does not appear the everyday person can go buy this premium insulation, because it goes to Habitat for Humanity and community projects can apply for a grant of this blue insulation.

So, if you are not in the mood to recycle, restyle, or upcycle your old jeans, you can always feel good about donating them to be recycled into this eco-friendly insulation.

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Sewing Mess Ups


Sewing Supplies image courtesy of Clarita and MorgueFile.
What do you do when you are sewing and you MESS UP?

For me, it depends on the size of the mess up and the amount of stress I am under before the mess up. Sometimes I can keep my cool and figure out what to do with no major upsets. Other times, I ball up what I'm making, stick it in a bag, walk around muttering for a while, and eventually go back to the project. Sometimes it takes months to go back to it, other times just a few minutes.

Something about walking away gives me a chance to calm down and think about something else. Then, when I'm thinking about something else, the solution to fixing the sewing mistake comes to me.

Anyway, after that vague intro, I'll just say my most recent sewing project turned into a big mess up, and I need to get back to my muttering and doing something else so I can figure out how to fix this mess.

So, anyway, what DO you do when you are sewing and you mess up? I would love to hear your ideas if you have a moment to share.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Mid-May Hello


Material image courtesy of jdurham and MorgueFile.

Hi Everyone, I'm sorry I haven't been posting much here lately; had a few things to finish up. As far assewing, most of my recent projects have been repair work... patching jeans, patching an awning, nothing too fun or creative.

I have some projects underway, and read a tutorial on making a ramen noodle package into a change purse (too cute) that I might try.

What have you been working on?

Friday, April 6, 2012

Facts about Vintage Buttons

Vintage buttons can add the perfect touch to an outfit, or they can be part of a fun button collection. Join me for a quick tutorial on buttons through the ages.


Vintage Buttons image courtesy of Cohdra and MorgueFile.
Shell Buttons


The earliest button ever found is about 5,000 years old and was carved from a shell. It’s a little hard to imagine the garment that sported the little treasure, probably some sort of animal hide crafted into a jacket or pants., though it is not actually known if the shell button was used for clothing or some other purpose. Shell buttons remained popular through the ages, and are still used in fashion design today.

Bone Buttons

Bone buttons have been in use almost as long as shell buttons, helping to keep early humans warm and safe from the elements, and are still commonly used today. Like buttons made of shell, the use of bone buttons has remained a constant part of human culture through the ages.

Modern Vintage Buttons

The terms modern and vintage might sound completely opposite, however it describes the advent of functional, holed buttons. These are the buttons most likely to be collected by button collectors. They can date back as far as 13th century Germany, 17th century Japan, or any time period in between. Usually, though, to be considered vintage, they need to be at least twenty years old.

Vintage button collectors enjoy owning, displaying, and occasionally even using, classic and heirloom buttons made from anything from shell to metal to glass and even plastic.

You can read more about the history of buttons and vintage buttons at:

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Baby and Clothing Project Books: Review

I'm popping in tonight to share a link to writer Connie Krochmal's Suite101 review of three sewing books:
  • Crazy Patchwork-Using Water-Soluble Stabiliser by Jeannette Knake
  • Nursery Stitch by Rebecca Shreeve
  • How to Use, Adapt and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan
If you are interested in any of these three topics, I highly recommend checking out the review of these books, as well as Connie's other sewing articles on Suite101.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Quilting Tool: Quilting Ruler with Non-Slip Backing

Crooked cutting means crooked seams, and your finished quilt can only look as good as your cutting allows. You can make sure you cut quilt fabric evenly by using a quilting ruler with a non-slip backing. The backing helps the ruler stay put, so it won't slide if you jiggle your hand a bit while cutting.

Photo credit: jjulian812 from morguefile.com
Details About Quilting Rulers

Quilting rulers do not look like the foot-long rulers you probably used in school. They are kind of like a hand-held grid mat, marked or gauged with different shapes and varied measurements.

While you can get metal or wood versions of this handy tool, if you work with a lot of color variations, look for a clear acrylic ruler with light markings on one side and dark markings on the other. This way, you only need to purchase one ruler.

If you do not enjoy math calculations, look for a ruler pre-marked with a 1/4" seam allowance.

If you end up with a ruler that does not have non-skid backing, which will be the case if you get a double-sided ruler, you can pick up non-skid adhesive discs or pads to stick on your quilting ruler as needed.

While not taking the very top spot of importance, a good quilting ruler will prove to be one of your most valuable tools as a quilter, and will serve you well through making many beautiful quilts.

Monday, March 12, 2012

Quilting Terminology: What is Bearding?

Have you ever seen a quilt that has a fuzzy appearance because the batting is poking through the surface of the fabric? The batting sticking out is what quilters call bearding. If the batting color is close to the color of the fabric, it might not show very much. If, however, the batting color varies widely from the fabric color, it really stands out.


Quilt image courtesy of Click and MorguFile.
How to Prevent Bearding
Bearding is most likely to occur if you make your quilt with loosely-woven fabric or if you use a needle that is too big.
  • If you are quilting with loosely-woven fabric, either make sure to either use batting that matches the fabric or place a layer of light-weight lining between the fabric and batting.
  • Also, make sure you are using a quilting needle that is the appropriate gauge for your project, so you are not making holes large enough for the batting to escape.
How to Get Rid of Quilt Bearding

Short of taking your quilt apart and replacing the bearded sections, you can't really get rid of bearding. That is obviously an impractical approach in most situations. However, you can improve the appearance of a bearded quilt by using a fabric shaver to remove most of the fibers that stick out.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Denim Water Bottle Bag with Pocket and Carabiner Loop

My morning project was making a drawstring water bottle bag from the leg of an old pair of jeans. I added a pocket that closes with a nylon strap carabiner loop. (I got it dirty already, by testing it out while doing yard work.)

How do you think it will look if I make one out of a polypropylene feed sack? I think it will be cute, but the drawstring will be tricky. If it works out I'll be back with a snapshot.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

How to Make a Flat-Felled Seam by Hand

A flat-felled seam is durable with a double line of stitching and completely encloses the fabric's cut edge. It is commonly used on jeans and is also sometimes used on baby clothes. A sewing machine works best for this type of seam, but if you don't have access to a sewing machine you can make this strong and attractive seam finsh by hand-sewing.

Practice First

Learning a new seam finish, especially when hand sewing, is best done on fabric scraps before attempting a garment.
  • To get started, use 2 rectangle pieces of fabric, about 3"x5".
  • Place the squares with the wrong sides together and long sides lined up evenly.
  • Use a threaded hand sewing needle to sew a line of back-stitching 5/8" from the fabric's raw edge, pick one of the long edges to get the most practice.
  • Open out the body og the rectangle fabric.
  • Slide the tip of a pair of scissors between the layers of the 5/8" seam.
  • Trim off the top layer of seam fabric 1/4" from the seam.
  • Wrap the longer, uncut seam fabric around the newly cut shorter edge and finger press it down flat against the body of the rectangle fabric.
  • Use pins, if you prefer to sew with pins, or just work the fold into place as you sew if you do not enjoy using pins.
  • Hand sew a scond line of back-stitching about 1/16" from the folded edge that wraps around the cut shorter edge.
  • If you used pins, go ahead and remove them as you sew so you don't end up poking your hand.
Make Something
  • When you are confident that you have this seam finish down, pick a pattern and some fabric and cut everything otu according to the pattern's directions.
  • Instead of putting the fabric pieces together with the wrong sides out, put them together with the right sides out.
  • Sew the seams in the order the directions recommend, just take the time to hand sew the flat-felled seam finish you practiced on the fabric scraps. Expect it to take a lot longer than sewing with a machine.
Flat-felled seams create a sturdy seam and they provide a polished, finished look that's hard to beat. For more information, feel free to leave a comment below or use the contact form provided.

Content prepared by Laure of Justice Writing Service.

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

National Quilting Day: in March

If you enjoy quilting, a day-long holiday has been named in your honor. National Quilting Day. So get out your quilt squares and needles and sew the day away - if you feel like it.

With this year already flying past, I want to share some information with you about National Quilting Day. It will be here and gone before you know it.

This quilter's holiday falls on the third Sunday in March and you can read more about it and its history here.

Monday, January 30, 2012

What Are e-Textiles?

Are you looking for a new type of sewing project or maybe a way to teach electronics to children?  E-Textiles might just provide the answer to your need for a new sewing challenge - or a unique lesson plan.

I'll give you the short description of e-Textiles (clothes or bags that flash or sing, pretty much anything textile with added lights or sounds) and then refer you to a great article called What Are e-Textiles? Get Started With Soft Circuit Electronics.

The article even gives you some tips on where to search for the items you'll need to try your own e-Textile project.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Convenient & Cool Sewing Gizmos: Mini Iron for Quilting and Tailoring

One of the most important lessons you pick up when learning to sew is that it's beneficial to follow each step. Ironing is an easy step to skip, but skipping it will show in your finished garment or any kind of sewn project.

Mini irons offer the convenience of a an easy-to-grab iron while avoiding the bulk and the occasional tediousness of a traditional iron.

Clover Mini Iron for Quilting and Tailoring
Mini Iron
A mini iron is simply a tiny version of a traditional iron. They are the perfect size for pressing a seam on a garment or when quilting.

They also slip nicely into delicate corners and are perfect for working around trims.

As far as disadvantages, well, they're small, so while one can be used to press a large item, the size makes them less than ideal for pressing entire garments.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Clover Brand Water Soluble Fabric Marking Pencils

I usually recommend fabric marking pens for home sewing projects and custom designing fabric pieces, but really, the pen versus pencil debate ends up being just a matter of personal preference. Clover brand water soluble pencils work with every bit as much precision and they wash away without a trace.

Clover Water Soluble Marking Pencils
3 Pack

I like that this three-pack of water soluble pencils comes in three colors, so I can choose the color that stands in sharpest contrast to the color of fabric I'm working with, then it just washes away when I'm done with my projects.

If you would like to check out this product on Amazon, you can click the picture or look for it in the Stitching it Right Online Store tab found at the top of this page. You can also find these or similar fabric marking pencils in fabric stores and craft shops. Prices will vary, but I usually find the best deals on general sewing supplies on Amazon.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Convenient and Cool Sewing Gizmos: Fiskars 12-in-1 Sewing Tool

If I don't get sidetracked, I plan to post a series of short articles about some convenient and cool sewing gizmos I have been trying out. Some are more convenient than cool while some run heavier to the cool side.

My first pick is a handy, and kind of organized, cool gizmo. It's the Fiskars 12-in-1 Sewing Tool. In fact, it's really more of a case that holds some sort-of related sewing tools in one convenient, little almost pen-shaped case.

What I like about this tool is, simply, the convenience of having all these little tools together in a case that's actually a convenient size to grab in a hurry when I'm working.

The sewing tools included in the case are:

  1. A needle threader (regular) 
  2. A long needle threader
  3. A magnifying glass
  4. A measuring tape
  5. A stuffing tool
  6. A pair of thread cutters
  7. A pair of sewing tweezers
  8. A punch needle
  9. A safety pin
  10. A piercing punch (awl)
  11. A knit picker
  12. An 8x1 inch plastic storage container (the case counts as one of the twelve pieces)

Note: This is NOT a paid endorsement, I just want to share my experience with this tool since this is  ablog about sewing and I think this is a nice sewing tool. If you have a different opinion, or if you have tried this tool and share my opinion, I invite you to share through the comments box below or send me a note through the contact us link if you prefer to reply without leaving a comment on site.

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